Preparing for your new Goldendoodle
All these tips are from the Badass Breeders Group!
Puppy Recall:We imprint all of our puppies to the recall of “puppy puppy puppy”. In effect, this is actually their “name” and not their assigned “litter name” that we may have referred to throughout our correspondence. This is a lifesaving tool we are giving you, so what can you do to ensure your puppy continues to have this vital recall? 1. Practice twice a week with a high value treat that they never get otherwise (cheese, chicken, hot dog, etc.). Wait for them to be distracted by something (focus is not on you) and then call, “Puppy puppy puppy!” As soon as your pup gets to you, have the biggest “puppy party” and give them the treat. That is it! 2. Do not ever use “puppy puppy puppy” as a punishment (to put them in their kennel, call them from inside, etc.). It has to be 100% positive EVERY single time!
Treat Game: The Role of “THE TREAT” Game Puppies are notorious for picking up everything and anything. Acknowledging that while dogs explore the world through their mouth and nose, this can also be dangerous when they start gulping items or get a hold of something poisonous. Let’s teach our puppy a fun game that could save their life! It is called the treat game. 1. Week 1: Once a day (if possible) wait for your pup to be interested in something else. Walk up to them and put the tasty treat at their nose and say, “treat”. Give the pup the treat and praise. That’s it! 2. Week 2: Start calling “treat” and have the puppy come to you! No barriers involved. Be in sight. When the puppy comes to you, give them the treat and praise! That’s it! 3. Week 3: Call treat and go to the fridge. Barriers and distractions can be at play now. Challenge the pup and wait until they are playing with a toy! Reward with a tasty treat! That’s it! 4. Week 4: You only need to do this a few times a week. Wait for the pup to be really interested in something else (another dog, toy, bone, food, children, etc.). Give a high value treat from the fridge and praise them. That’s it! The Why? Now, anytime the puppy has something in their mouth they should not, or that you need to get from them, simply call, “treat” and go to the fridge. They will drop the item when you say treat or when they get to you. Do not put any focus on it! Put your foot over it and wait for the pup to toddle off. Then pick it up. Do not ever chase a puppy with something in their mouth. You are only adding value to it. Just call “treat” and walk to the fridge. No panic or stress! You have done your work in ensuring you don’t have a resource guarder or gulper in your house!
Puppy Chewing Puppies have needle sharp teeth and this can be tough! Some tricks to help you avoid becoming a pincushion are to have chew bones and toys always close by! Do not ever let them chew on you. All it takes is one family member that allows this behavior and it will be possible for the toddler to become a chew toy too. Keep your rules and boundaries consistent. If your puppy chews on you, offer an acceptable item for them to chew on. If they persist, then take yourself away from them (get up and leave or turn your back to them). They will not want to lose you! Another tip that works for most puppies is to make a quick, sharp puppy “cry” noise. This is how they let other littermates know it hurts!
Jumping Jumping is another problem that young puppies may struggle with. Their excitement and overwhelming love for people can make this extremely difficult; however, do not even start allowing this behavior. Do not reward, pet or praise a puppy that jumps on you. Ignore them, turn your back, or walk away! A calm puppy that is sitting is a puppy that is ready for praise and love! Teach calm, self-controlled behaviors now; it will pay off as they get larger and stronger!
Feeding I have cut the feeding schedule down to a twice a day schedule by the time your puppy comes home. As they age, you can put your dog onto a one a day feeding schedule if you prefer. So how much should you feed your new puppy? Please follow the guidelines on the particular kibble you feed that correlates to your pup’s weight and age!
Potty Training Depending on your bedtime schedule, remove food and water 2-3 hours before your bedtime to allow the puppy a greater chance of holding it all night. Remember that your dog’s bladder will not be fully developed until he or she reaches five months old Therefore, as your pup gets older, they will be able to hold it longer. If you do have to take your puppy out at night, please do not make this a play session. Be matter of fact (as little talking as possible) and get down to business. Praise the potty behavior and right back into the kennel. These puppies are very bright and if they know that you will get up in the middle of the night to play, talk sweet and love on them, they will start waking you for this attention alone. I strongly suggest kennel training, and potty training is one of the biggest reasons why. Puppies will rarely potty where they sleep. This is one of the main reasons I begin “potty training” puppies at three weeks old by dividing their whelping box into 2 sections - one for a nurse and sleep area and one for a potty area. When you bring your puppy home and put him or her into an appropriate sized kennel (not too large, just enough room to turn around and lay down) they will fuss when they have to go potty! If you cannot watch your puppy or it is naptime, tuck them into their kennel. When it is time to go out, place the kennel by the door and let the puppy walk him or herself out. In the beginning you may need to place the kennel right at the door, sometimes they squat just after a few steps! Over time, you can move the kennel farther and farther away from the door. While puppies understand the concept of a den vs. an elimination area, you are bringing them to a new “den” and you will have to show your new puppy the ropes! When your puppy has an accident, please just clean it up thoroughly and move on. Only clap hands and scold vocally IF you catch the pup going potty. Rubbing their nose in it, etc. is not acceptable and is a complete waste of time. In your pup’s brain they are wondering why you are making them smell their own urine or feces. They know what it smells like! In general, your pup will need to potty every 30 minutes as well as after a nap, vigorous play, exiting the kennel and following meals. When in doubt, take out! Again, if you can’t watch your puppy, in the kennel they go!
Kennel Use Dogs are den animals and actually prefer sleeping in small places. The cost of a crate may initially seem expensive, but when you compare it to the cost of ruined rugs and / or chewed up furniture, it is well worth it! When you bring your puppy home, it is best to begin using the crate right away. There are many different crates, but I typically use the Petco 300 or 400 series for puppies initially, and then purchase an adult crate later on. The kennel needs to be large enough for them to walk into, turn around and lay down. You should, however, refrain from giving your puppy a large kennel in the beginning, because you don’t want them to have enough space to have both a “sleep” and a “potty” area inside the kennel. Kennel training can make potty training easier, gives you and your puppy a few breaks throughout the day and helps keep your puppy safe when you can’t watch him or her! I suggest putting a small plastic bin with a lid on the top of the kennel, filled with many different toys to keep your puppy occupied while he or she is inside the kennel. Toys like Kongs, Busy bones, Nylabones, etc. are all great options. Puppies will enjoy going into their kennel to see what special surprise you have for them! Even though we expose puppies to kennels early on, they have free reign in and out of them. Once you close the door, protest will occur. This is where tough love comes into play – you will need to ignore the whimpering all the way up to the outright screaming (just make sure the pup does not need to potty or that something is wrong). If you let them out, you are teaching them that screaming will get them out! If you “console” them, you are teaching them that they are correct in their feelings of disdain. You cannot enable this behavior if you do not want it to persist into the future. Both behaviors from you will make this process very difficult. Try to get the pup to enter the kennel on his or her own, by luring them with one of those special treats or toys and then close the door. Make sure you name the behavior as they walk in with the word, “Kennel” or something cleverer if you prefer. Generally, the crying and protesting only lasts 3 days - stick with it, it will pay off!
Socializing and Developmental Stages It is imperative that your new dog socializes with other people and pets in a safe manner. Try to steer clear of other dogs and any areas populated by puppies and other dogs for a few weeks, until your veterinarian has administered all of your dog’s vaccinations. Having your puppy around other people, dogs, new locations, in the car, etc. will create a much happier, well-socialized dog in the long run. You will be so proud to take your pup with you on the go, and he or she will enjoy meeting new people and visiting new places. However, you must be cautious of Parvo, a highly contagious and very dangerous virus that can live in any environment for years and can be easily tracked into your own house on your shoes. We suggest you clean your house before your puppy comes home, keep your shoes at the door and employ the “all four off the floor” method to socialize your puppy until he or she receives its parvo vaccination. Do not keep your puppy sheltered during these precious developmental weeks, just make sure that you avoid areas with other dogs and that your pup keeps all four paws off the floor outside of the home. Brief and safe socializing is so important to the proper development of a puppy. I have 8 weeks. You have 8 weeks. And it takes both of us to ensure a stable happy puppy follows!
Obedience/Training Please start training your puppy immediately. They are smart, eager to learn and want to please! Dogs are pack animals and are looking to you for leadership and guidance when they join your pack. You will be amazed at how much they can learn starting at 8 weeks old. It is very exciting and rewarding when your pup learns something new! Start with sit, down, stay, kennel and go potty. I also highly recommend enrolling your puppy in a puppy kindergarten class. They get to socialize, start learning self-control and begin on basic obedience tasks. Follow through with any “puppy homework” you are given to continue building your relationship with your pup and helping he or she learn through repetition. Please do not stop at puppy kindergarten. Upon graduation enroll your pup in a basic obedience class as well. In the puppy evaluation paperwork, I outlined two critical concepts to help lay a nice foundation for your pup: hand feeding and the “sit on the dog” activity. Also don’t forget tether training! These exercises are very beneficial in teaching your pup self-control, focus and pack order.
Veterinarian Care Vaccination records are enclosed in the puppy packet. However, your vet will advise you on what is best for the proper care of your pet. Please spay or neuter your pup at approximately 7-12 months old. The health benefits are overwhelming, not to mention the implications of an unplanned pregnancy can be devastating.
Parasites Unfortunately, parasites in pups are extremely common and it is estimated that 95% of pups have parasites. We do our very best to keep our puppies parasite-free. They are dewormed at 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks. However, not all parasites respond to particular deworming and excess stress with “go-home” can “awaken” parasites that previously lay dormant. Throughout the eight weeks your puppy is with us, we perform random fecal tests to gauge any issues, and if any arise, we treat all of the puppies in the litter. We may send your puppy home with the remainder of his or her medication if there is an issue. Nonetheless, it is much easier to stop repeated transmission when the whole litter is not together, since they keep reinfecting each other! Upon bringing your puppy home, it is worthwhile for your pup to have another fecal test done at the veterinarian when you bring them in for their vaccinations.
Puppy “Massage” 10 Step Puppy Handling Exercise This approach is performed to improve your pup’s ability to handle different types of touch, handling and sensation. It can be performed in ANY order. Do not put your puppy down if they are agitated or upset. If they are displaying resistance, stop until the puppy calms and then resume! Reward with positive praise and snuggles when done! 1. Rub and gently tug on their ears 2. Cover their eyes for 3-5 seconds 3. Open their mouth, inspect their teeth and place your finger inside of their mouth. You can rub their tongue and gums. I also always watch teeth to ensure they are coming in correctly. Every once in a while, issues with tooth eruption do occur. 4. Rub their belly and chest in a wide circular motion. 5. Run your hand up their back (from tail to head) a few times to ruffle their fur. Also practice “heavy petting” - patting your pup’s back like you are burping a baby 6. Gently tug and twist their tail. 7. Rub your fingers in between all of their pads on their paws 8. Tap on the tip of their nails 9. Put your hands on their collar and apply a slight tug or pressure 10. Touch their nose! This is an excellent time to check the puppy over from head to foot each day ensuring everything is forming correctly and the pup’s conformation looks and feels good. I use my hands and fingers as a way to explore and touch every part of them. You can be standing (elevation work) or sitting - try both! Don’t always perform the “puppy massage” in the same room at the same time. As pups age, it helps to do this exercise when they are sleepy - after a solid play session is a great time. It is also CRUCIAL to have others do the massage as well. You want your dog to be tolerant to touch by friends, strangers, kids, the elderly, veterinarians, groomers etc.
The Puppy Crazies FRAP (Frenetic Random Activity Periods) is the technical term for what I call the “puppy crazies” or others call the “zoomies.” These FRAP sessions typically occur approximately two to three times a day. This is when your well-mannered puppy goes absolutely crazy! He or she will run around, jump on the furniture, attack everything, spin in circles, bark and quite honestly act like they have gone off the deep end. This is totally normal! The good news is that these periods of high energy only last a few minutes and your dog will grow out of them. With that being said, this is a time when young children need to be picked up and placed in a safe location! FRAP and young children are rarely a good mix.
Love and Patience You have made the important decision to let a puppy into your heart and home. We sincerely thank you for trusting us to give your puppy the best start possible. I know there will be frustrations and patience will be tested in having a puppy, but I also know the rewards are wonderful and exponential. Enjoy the complete innocence of a puppy, their ability to stop and smell the flowers, and maybe even taste them, their curiosity is contagious, and playfulness is humorous. I can promise you that you will gain a comedian, confidante, companion, and ultimately a new family member. Please don’t hesitate to call, text, or email me if you have any questions and of course please send lots of updates and pictures!
Puppy Go Home Instructions We suggest the following protocol when taking your puppy home to ensure a smooth transition. Stress, lack of sleep, new people etc. can compromise your pup’s immune system, and unfortunately, puppy parasites can flourish. While ALL puppies are treated on a deworming schedule, pups can leave me “clean” only to be home for a week or two and have a parasite.
Please know that nearly all dogs / puppies have parasites. When you deworm and / or medicate you can kill all live/active parasites; however, parasites and protozoa have a plan for survival in place. They lay dormant eggs in the tissues of the host. The ONLY way these eggs can be “activated” is through stress, a compromised immune system, pregnancy (hence the puppy parasites – they are passed from mama to baby) and sickness / disease. Our job is to treat live parasites and then keep pups healthy and happy to ensure their body is not a place where dormant eggs can be activated. Unfortunately, a puppy is a preferred host since they are 80% water upon birth, grow at an incredibly fast rate and naturally have a compromised immune system.
After a lot of thought and experience, I recommend you try the following protocol to minimize the activation of dormant parasites:
1. Keep the house completely calm and stress-free for three days to a week (no new visitors, limited commotion, minimal handling, etc.). Treat them like a newborn baby coming home. When you come home or have visitors stop by, please keep all shoes at the door. Parvo can be brought inside on shoes.
2. Do not wake the “sleeping baby”. Puppies sleep an incredible amount of time. Do not worry. As long as your pup wakes up with puppy energy, silliness, eats well, drinks well then all is good!
3. Mushy poop is common with stress, please feed only boiled hamburger (or boiled chicken) and white rice. You can also add in a little canned pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling, which has other ingredients), for the first three days if your pup develops loose stools. A nice bland diet is imperative during a tough transition. If after three days, stools are firm, then SLOWLY add in dog food to the bland diet, increasing the dog food ratio over the next 5 days. You can make large batches of the boiled hamburger / chicken and Puppy Packet - 8 - rice at a time, and put the mixture in the refrigerator, or even freeze prior to the puppy coming home.
4. Do not feed ANY treats (including bones, etc.). Just the bland diet. You don’t want to cause an upset tummy due to food or treats. Upset tummies create a nice environment for parasites.
5. When your puppy has transitioned back to just dog kibble, add a good probiotic to their food. I recommend Purina Forti Flora.
6. This puppy was or was not raised on well water. If they were, they will need to be given bottled water to drink the 1st three days and then transitioned to city water. When to worry: 1. Poop contains mucus or blood. If this happens, feed a bland diet for 24 hours and if the condition remains after this time period, a fecal test might be in order. 2. Puppy is lethargic, does not play with some vigor and or refuses to eat. 3. Puppy cannot poop and vomits. This can indicate he or she ate something and has a blockage. This is an emergency. Seek immediate veterinary care. 4. Liquid poop. Be careful. A puppy can dehydrate quickly, so if poop does not improve quickly, then a visit to the veterinarian will be needed. I hope this makes the transition for your puppy easier and healthier. Thank you for ensuring their safety and well-being!